Solutions for Anti-Pilling Finishing in Textile Printing and Dyeing

Fabric pilling refers to the phenomenon where fibers protrude from the fabric surface (fuzzing) due to mechanical friction during use, and with continued friction, these loose fibers become entangled, forming pills (pilling). Pilling is a dynamic property; the rate at which pills form often changes over time with wear. So, what are the anti-pilling solutions for textiles during printing and dyeing processing? Let's explore this in detail.

**1. Testing Methods**

To standardize the evaluation of fabric anti-pilling performance, relevant domestic and international organizations have established test method standards. Test conditions vary between methods, and results are not directly comparable. Currently, products sold domestically can choose test methods according to corresponding product standards. For example:

*   Dresses, single-layer jackets, knitted T-shirts, knitted student uniforms, etc.: Use GB/T 4802.1.

*   Bedding items: Use GB/T 4802.2.

*   Knitted woolen sweaters: Use GB/T 4802.3.

For export products, testing agencies will select the method based on the destination country's standards, e.g., ASTM D3512 for exports to the US, BS 5811 for exports to the UK, etc. Therefore, if there are specific requirements, enterprises should clearly specify the test method when submitting samples to avoid misunderstandings.

**2. Influencing Factors**

Factors affecting the degree of fabric pilling are multifaceted and can be analyzed in terms of raw materials used, spinning/weaving processes, dyeing and finishing, and wearing conditions.

**2.1 Fiber Properties**

*   **Fiber Length:** Fabrics made from long fibers generally pill less than those made from short fibers. This is because there are fewer fiber ends per unit length, resulting in fewer ends protruding from the yarn and fabric surface. Additionally, long fibers have greater cohesion, making it harder for them to slip out onto the yarn and fabric surface.

*   **Fiber Fineness:** Coarse fibers are less prone to pilling than fine fibers. Yarns spun from coarse fibers have fewer fibers per unit area, leading to fewer fiber ends exposed on the yarn and fabric surface. Coarser fibers are also stiffer, making it harder for protruding ends to entangle into pills.

*   **Fiber Crimp:** Fibers with high crimp have greater cohesion and increased friction, making it harder for fibers to migrate to the fabric surface and thus less likely to pill.

*   **Fiber Cross-Section:** Fibers with near-circular cross-sections have lower cohesion and are more prone to pilling compared to fibers with irregular cross-sections (e.g., triangular, polygonal), which have higher cohesion.

*   **Fiber Strength and Elasticity:** Fibers with high strength and good elasticity generally have poorer anti-pilling performance than those with lower strength and elasticity. This is because they are harder to break off during friction; once fuzzing occurs, they can easily become entangled into pills. For instance, polyester staple fiber is very prone to pilling. Additionally, polyester fiber easily generates static electricity during friction, attracting foreign particles and worsening the pilling problem.

**2.2 Spinning and Weaving Processes**

*   **Spinning Process:** The spinning process involves multiple stages, each of which can cause friction on the yarn, generating surface hairiness.

*   **Yarn Blend Ratio:** In polyester-blend fabrics, a higher polyester content generally leads to more severe pilling.

*   **Yarn Twist:** Yarns with higher twist have fibers bound more tightly, reducing the number of protruding fibers and the fiber's ability to migrate. This results in lower pilling propensity.

*   **Winding:** Winding is a major source of yarn hairiness. As the bobbin with hairiness unwinds at high speed during winding, it causes friction, increasing the amount of hairiness.

*   **Fabric Structure:** Knitted fabrics are generally more prone to pilling than woven fabrics due to their larger exposed yarn surface area. Fabrics with tight structures are less prone to pilling than those with loose structures. Fine-gauge knits are less prone than coarse-gauge knits. Plain knits pill less than rib knits. Fabrics with a smooth, flat surface are less prone to pilling than those with an uneven surface. Plain woven fabrics are less prone than twill weaves.

**2.3 Dyeing and Finishing Processes**

During dyeing and finishing, factors such as equipment type, processing methods, and the chemicals used can influence the pilling tendency. For example:

*   Singeing conditions.

*   Wet friction and mechanical tension during mercerization or continuous bleaching.

*   Whether anti-pilling agents are used.

*   Parameters like dyeing liquor ratio and time.

These factors can all affect the degree of pilling.

**2.4 Wearing Conditions**

*   **Garment Pairing:** When wearing garments prone to pilling, pairing them with smoother inner or outer layers can help reduce friction.

*   **Washing and Drying:** Always follow the care label instructions. Avoid simply tossing all garments into the washing machine, as the mechanical action can increase friction and worsen pilling.

**3. Improvement Methods**

Improving the anti-pilling performance of textiles during production is a systematic task that requires integrated measures across fiber production, spinning, and weaving processes.

**3.1 Optimize Fiber Blending**

Consider factors like fiber fineness, length, and crimp comprehensively when determining the blending ratio.

**3.2 Improve Spinning Processes**

*   **Cotton Yarn:** Use Sirospun. This method modifies the spinning frame. Its key feature is a device after the delivery rollers that gathers the drafted sliver before twisting. The sliver is drawn onto a porous surface by suction, compressing it. This reduces the spinning triangle, improves twist efficiency, and enhances fiber alignment and cohesion, significantly reducing yarn hairiness.

*   **Wool or Wool-Blend Yarn:** Use Solospun (also known as Cable Spun). This technology uses a grooved split roller placed before the front roller. The grooves split the emerging flat sliver into multiple narrow strands. Each strand receives a small amount of twist from the spinning triangle. These strands then converge and twist together, forming a yarn resembling a cable. Compared to Sirospun (twisting two strands), Solospun, which twists multiple strands, produces yarn with higher strength, better abrasion resistance, and less hairiness.

*   **Rings and Winders:** Choose rings with high hardness; soft rings can be worn down by the traveler, causing tension instability and increasing hairiness. Slightly increasing yarn twist (e.g., by 8-15%) can also help, though it may affect hand feel. For winding, use advanced automatic winders like the German C338 or Italian Orion. Their precise winding systems help prevent overlapping and reduce friction-related hairiness during unwinding.

**3.4 Improve Fabric Finishing Processes**

*   **Use Auxiliaries:** Add anti-pilling agents during bleaching and softeners during dyeing. These reduce wet friction between yarns and between the fabric and machinery, while also controlling fiber ends protruding from yarns, thereby lowering pilling potential. Alternatively, use resin-based or chemical binders via padding to adhere surface fibers to the fabric, reducing pilling.

*   **Biotech Finishing:** For cellulosic fibers (cotton, viscose, linen, Tencel, etc.), use bio-polishing. This enzymatic treatment weakens fiber ends, which are then removed by mechanical action. Removing these protruding micro-fibers prevents pilling and enhances fabric luster.

*   **Polyester Fabric:** Use gentle singeing (front and back, low flame) to avoid over-singeing. Ensure thorough scouring to remove oils and lubricants, which could otherwise attract particles and lint. Add caustic soda during scouring to achieve an alkali-reduction effect on the polyester, etching its surface and improving anti-pilling properties.

**4. Conclusion**

In summary, a key cause of hairiness is friction. Reducing friction throughout the production process can mitigate pilling. This includes:

*   Ensuring thorough cleaning and carding of cotton or sliver before combing to remove impurities and neps.

*   Proper maintenance and upkeep of winding machines (like drums) to minimize yarn friction during winding.

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纺织印染加工抗起毛起球解决方案，织物的起毛起球是指在受到机械摩擦作用，纤维露出织物表面形成起毛，继续摩擦后，纤维缠结继而成球的现象。起毛起球是一项动态性能，起球速度经常随着穿着时间变化而变化。那么这些纺织品在印染加工的抗起毛起球解决方案有哪些呢？接下来就为大家详细介绍下。

　　1、测试方法

　　为了规范对纺织品抗起毛起球性能的评价，国内外相关机构制定了纺织品抗起毛起球性能的测试方法标准，不同方法的测试条件存在差异，所测得的结果也不可等同。目前，在国内销售的产品可根据相应的产品标准规定来选择：如连衣裙、单夹服装、针织Ｔ恤衫、针织学生服等用GB/T4802。
１；床上用品类用GB/T4802。
２；针织羊毛衫类用GB/T4802。
３。如果是出口产品，检测机构会根据产品输出国的标准来确定测试方法：如出口美国的用ASTM D3512；出口英国的用BS 5811等等。因此如有特殊要求时，企业在送检时尽量填写清楚所用的测试方法，以免发生误会。

　　2、影响因素

　　影响织物起毛球程度的因素是多方面的，可以从生产时所用的原料、纺织工艺、染整加工、服用条件等方面来分析。

　　2.1纤维性能

　　1）纤维长度

　　一般长纤织成的织物起球程度轻于短纤维织成的织物，因为单位长度内纤维头段数少，露出纱线和织物表面的纤维端也较少。另外，长纤维间的抱合力较大，纤维不易滑出到纱线和织物的表面。

　　2）纤维细度

　　粗纤维较细纤维不易起球，粗纤维纺成的纱，单位面积内纤维根数少，露出纱和织物表面的纤维端较少；纤维越粗，越刚硬，竖起在织物表面的纤维不易缠结成球。

　　3）纤维卷曲度

　　纤维的卷曲多，纤维间抱合力大，摩擦增加，纤维不易游离到织物表面，也就不易起球。

　　4）纤维的截面形状

　　纤维截面形状接近圆形的，纤维间抱合力小，较纤维截面形状接近三角形、多边形等异形纤维容易起球。

　　5）纤维强度及纤维弹性

　　强度高、弹性好的纤维较强度低、弹性差的纤维抗起球性能差，因为其摩擦时不易磨断脱落，一旦起毛后，容易缠结成球。所以涤纶短纤的起球非常严重，而且涤纶纤维一经摩擦，易产生静电，很容易吸附外来粒子，更加重了起球程度。

　　2.2纺纱及织造加工

　　1）纺纱工艺

　　纺线过程中，要经过多道工序，而各工序都或多或少会使纱线受到摩擦而产生毛羽。

　　2）纱线混纺比例

　　涤混纺织物中，涤纶含量越高，起球越严重。

　　3）纱线捻度

　　捻度大的纱线纤维间束缚紧密，突出的纤维更少，降低了纤维的可移性，织物起球程度低。

　　4）络筒

　　络筒是纱线产生毛羽的主要工序，因附有毛羽的细管纱，经过在络筒工序时，高速退绕，造成细纱自身摩擦，增加毛羽量。

　　5）织造类型

　　由于暴露的纱线表面积大，针织物比机织物容易起球；组织结构紧密的比组织疏松的不易起毛起球，细针距针织物比粗针距针织物不易起毛起球；纬平针织物比罗纹针织物起毛起球现象轻；布面比较平整、光滑的织物比布面凹凸不平的织物不易起毛起球，平纹织物比斜纹织物不易起球。

　　2.3染整加工

　　染整加工时，所用设备型号、加工方式及整理过程中加入的助剂对织物起毛球程度都有一定影响。如对烧毛条件的控制，丝光、连续漂白对织物的湿摩擦力和机械拉伸力，是否加入抗起毛起球助剂，染色浴比、时间等参数，都会影响纤维的起毛起球程度。

　　2.4服用条件

　　1）穿着时的搭配，易起毛球的衣服内、外层宜搭配光滑服装，以减少摩擦。

　　2）洗涤条件和干燥方式要尽量按照服装上洗涤标签的要求，切不可统统丢进洗衣机里一洗了事，因为在洗衣机的强力作用下，摩擦加剧，加重起毛起球。

       纺织印染加工抗起毛起球解决方案

　　3、改善方法

　　在实际生产过程中，如何改善纺织品抗起毛起球性能也是一项系统工程，应从纤维生产、纺纱、编织等生产过程采取综合措施解决。

　　3.1合理配棉

　　在配棉时要综合考虑纤维的细度、长度、卷曲度等各项因素，合理掌握配棉比例。

　　3.2改良纺纱工艺

　　1）棉纱可用赛络纺（Sirospun），主要在细纱机上作改良，牵伸系统与传统细纱机不同，在输出罗拉后多加一套令纤维汇集的装置，使有效地让经过了两次牵伸的粗纱棉条，在进入加捻区前汇聚，利用一股气流把条子从罗拉牵伸系统的夹持点拉出，集合在一个多孔的表面上，因吸力作用下条子被压缩，缩小钳口处粗纱宽度，大幅降低纺纱三角的高度，棉纱加捻效果增加，棉纤维抱合更加有序，更加紧密，令棉纱毛羽数量大幅下降。

　　2）纯毛或毛混纺纱可用索罗纺纱（Solospun），又名缆型纺纱，这是由国际羊毛局推出的新技术，是在前罗拉下加装一个表面有许多沟槽的分割罗拉，其作用是利用沟槽将前钳口下输出的扁平须条分割成许多窄条，这些纤维窄条由于捻度传递而围绕自身捻心回转，带有小量捻度，再随着纱线卷绕运动向下移动，再被汇聚加捻后，形成类似多股纱条捻成的缆绳纱，故又有将其称为缆型纺纱。与仅由两根弱捻须条加捻而成的赛络纱相比，这种由多根弱捻须条加捻而成的纱，具有更高的强力、更好的耐磨性和更少的毛羽。

　　3）纺纱时选用硬度高的钢领，硬度低的钢领易被钢丝圈磨成沟痕，令张力不稳定，增加毛羽的产生。另外，可稍增加纱线捻度，如增加８%～１５　%，但捻度增加后手感较硬，编织时可能要加装解扭器。络筒可选用德国Ｃ３３８ 或意大利奥立安自动络筒机，其精密卷绕系统，可防止纱线重绕，减少退绕时的不适当摩擦而产生毛羽。

　　3.4改善织物整理工艺

　　1）整理时使用助剂。在漂白处理过程中加入抗起毛起球剂，染色过程中加入柔软剂，以减少纱线之间、织物与染色机之间的湿摩擦力，同时可以控制纤维从纱线内漏出尾端，从而降低起毛起球的几率。或者利用树脂类助剂或化学粘合剂，经过轧压，使毛羽紧紧粘贴于织物表面，达到降低起毛起球的目的。

　　2）纤维素纤维织物（棉、粘胶、麻、天丝等）可使用生物抛光技术。一种用纤维素酶改善棉织物表面的整理工艺，用酶将纤维末端弱化，然后用机械作用力去除从纱线表面伸出的细微纤维，这些细微纤维被去除了就不会起毛起球，色泽也变得更光亮。

　　3）涤纶织物，在烧毛工序采用一正一反，使用弱火，以免引起过烧。精练工序时将油去干净，否则油脂在服用时容易吸附小颗粒、小花毛。同时在精练过程中加入烧碱，由于涤纶织物不耐强碱，能对涤纶织物能起到碱减量的作用，使涤纶织物表面产生剥皮效果，提高抗起毛起球效果。

　　4、结语

　　总之，产生毛羽的重要原因是受到摩擦，为了减少摩擦的可能性，可以从各道工序去改进。比如在精梳之前的工序，对棉花或棉条进行充分的梳理，减少棉花或棉条中的杂质和棉结；在络筒工序中，注意糟筒和日常维护和保养等等。