The textile and apparel industry is closely related to our daily lives, and textile testing encompasses numerous aspects. With rapid economic development, testing methods are constantly evolving. Let's explore these essential tests.

**I. Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage) Test**

1) **Purpose:** To determine the dimensional stability of woven or knitted fabrics after repeated washing in a domestic washing machine.

2) **Principle:** Before washing, markings are made on the specimen. The dimensional change is assessed by measuring the difference in these markings after washing.

3) **Process:** Select the washing and drying methods, number of cycles based on the fabric type and customer requirements. Add standard detergent and appropriate water level to start washing and drying. Finally, record the test results.

**II. Physical Property Tests**

1) **Main Items:**

   Yarn count, fabric density, fabric weight (mass per unit area), tensile strength, tear strength, seam slippage, seam strength, bursting strength, abrasion resistance, and pilling resistance.

2) **Detailed Explanation:**

   *   **Yarn Count:** Indicates the thickness of the yarn. Currently, the most commonly used is the English cotton count (Ne), defined as the number of 840-yard hanks per pound of cotton yarn at a standard regain of 9.89%.

   *   **Fabric Density:** The number of yarns per inch (or per centimeter).

   *   **Fabric Weight:** The weight of fabric per unit area, typically expressed in ounces per square yard (oz/yd²) or grams per square meter (g/m²).

   *   **Tensile Strength:** The force required to break a fabric specimen of specified dimensions when stretched at a constant rate. Test methods include the grab method and the strip method. The specific method is selected based on the test standard and customer requirements.

   *   **Tear Strength:** The force required to propagate a tear in a fabric specimen after an initial cut. The test uses a pendulum-type tearing strength tester.

   *   **Seam Slippage:** For a folded and stitched fabric specimen, after a cut at a specified distance from the seam, the force required to create a specific seam opening, or the opening distance at a specified force, when the specimen is stretched at a constant rate. This test is typically performed only on woven fabrics.

   *   **Seam Strength:** Similar to seam slippage, this measures the force required to rupture the seam itself when the specimen is stretched at a constant rate. This test is typically performed only on woven fabrics.

   *   **Bursting Strength:** The force required to rupture a fabric when subjected to an expanding, multi-directional force applied at a suitable angle.

   *   **Abrasion Resistance:** The number of cycles a fabric can withstand under specified pressure against a standard abrasive surface following a defined rubbing trajectory, until the point of yarn breakage or hole formation specified by the customer.

   *   **Pilling Resistance:** Assesses the formation of fuzz and pills on the fabric surface after specific tumbling and abrasion conditions. Pilling resistance is evaluated by comparing the tested specimen with standard photographs or an original un-tested sample.

**III. Color Fastness Tests**

1) **Main Items:**

   Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, light, perspiration, water, chlorine bleach, non-chlorine bleach, and hot pressing.

2) **Basic Content:**

   *   **Color Fastness to Washing:** A specimen is sewn together with standard adjacent fabrics and subjected to washing, rinsing, and drying under specific conditions of temperature, alkalinity, bleaching, and mechanical action (using a small liquor-to-fabric ratio and stainless steel balls). The resulting staining and color change are assessed using standard grey scales.

   *   **Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning:** Similar to washing fastness, but using dry cleaning conditions.

   *   **Color Fastness to Rubbing:** A specimen is rubbed against a standard white rubbing cloth under specified pressure for a set number of cycles. Both dry and wet rubbing tests are performed. The staining on the white cloth is assessed using a grey scale.

   *   **Color Fastness to Light:** A specimen is exposed to sunlight or artificial light alongside standard blue wool references. The fading of the specimen is compared against the blue wool references to determine the light fastness rating.

   *   **Color Fastness to Perspiration:** A specimen sewn with adjacent fabrics is treated in a perspiration solution, placed under pressure in a perspiration tester, and kept at a constant temperature. The resulting staining and color change are assessed.

   *   **Color Fastness to Water:** Similar to the perspiration test, but the specimen is immersed in water instead of a perspiration solution.

   *   **Color Fastness to Chlorine Bleach:** Assesses the color change of a fabric after washing under conditions that include chlorine bleach.

   *   **Color Fastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach:** Assesses the color change of a fabric after washing under conditions that include non-chlorine bleach.

   *   **Color Fastness to Hot Pressing:** A dry specimen, covered with an adjacent cotton fabric, is subjected to heat and pressure under specified conditions. The resulting color change and staining are assessed.

**IV. Chemical Property Tests**

1) **Main Test Items:**

   Formaldehyde content, pH value, water repellency, oil repellency, stain release, flame retardancy, fiber composition analysis, and banned azo dye testing.

2) **Basic Content:**

   *   **Formaldehyde Testing:** Free or released formaldehyde is extracted from a fabric specimen using a specific method. The formaldehyde content is determined through colorimetric analysis.

   *   **pH Value Test:** The acidity or alkalinity of a fabric solution is measured using a pH meter.

   *   **Water Repellency, Oil Repellency, and Stain Release Tests:** These tests evaluate the fabric's resistance to water, oil, and stains, primarily for fabrics treated with these finishes.

   *   **Flame Retardancy Test:** A specimen is placed in a flame retardancy tester, and the time for flame spread is measured under specified conditions.

   *   **Fiber Composition Analysis:** Qualitative analysis (e.g., microscopic examination, combustion, solubility) is first used to identify the fiber types present. Quantitative analysis then uses specific solvents to dissolve and separate different fiber components, allowing calculation of the percentage composition.

   *   **Banned Azo Dye Testing:** This is a crucial quality control item in international textile and apparel trade and a key indicator for ecological textiles. Testing is typically performed using gas chromatography. There are three main methods for azo dye testing: for textiles (excluding polyester and leather), for polyester, and for leather. Providing the product's fiber composition is essential when requesting this test.

纺织品和服装行业与我们的日常生活息息相关，关于纺织品的测试也包括很多项，随着经济的快速发展，检测也在不断更新。下面就跟小编来看看这些必备的测试吧。

    一、缩水测试

    1）目的：测定梭织布或针织布经家用洗衣机反复水洗后的尺寸稳定性。

    2）原理：洗涤之前，在试样上标记尺寸，通过测量标记在洗涤后的变化来判断试样的尺寸变化。

    3）过程：按布种和客户要求选择洗涤及干燥方式、循环和干燥次数，加入标准洗涤剂及适当水位开始洗涤及干燥，最后得出测试结果。

    二、 物理性能测试

    1）主要项目：

    纱支，密度，克重，拉伸强力，撕破强力，接缝滑移，接缝强力，顶破强力，耐磨，抗起毛起球性等。

    2）具体说明：

    纱支：指纱的粗细，目前用的大多是英制支数，用Ne表示，其定义是：公定回潮率9.89%时1磅重的棉纱线所具有的长率的840码的倍数。

    密度：每INCH里纱线的根数。

    克重：每平方码布的盎司重或每平方米布的克重。

    拉伸强力：一定尺寸的织物被拉伸强力机用恒定的速率拉伸至断裂时的所用的力就是所测的拉伸强力。拉伸强力的测试有抓样法和条样法，根据不同的测试标准和客户要求来选择具体的测试方法。

    撕破强力：一定尺寸的试样，夹紧在撕破强力仪上，中间切一切口以确定撕破方向，撕破强力仪采用摆锤下降方式将试样从切口处撕破所用的力就是所测的撕破强力。

    接缝滑移：将一定尺寸的织物折叠后，沿宽度方向缝线，离缝线一定距离剪开后，使用拉伸强力仪用恒定的速率拉伸至一定的缝线开口所用的力或拉伸至一定的强力时的开口距离，就是我们所测的接缝滑移。接缝滑移有定开口测力和定力测开口两种方式，测试时根

据不同的测试标准和客户要求来选择具体的测试方法。接缝滑移一般只用于梭织物的测试。

    接缝强力：同接缝滑移一样，将一定尺寸的织物折叠后，沿宽度方向缝线，离缝线一定距离剪开后，使用拉伸强力仪用恒定的速率拉伸使缝线断开所用的力就是所测的接缝强力，接缝强力可以与接缝滑移同时进行，一般只用于梭织物的测试。

    顶破强力：在一定条件下，对一平面织物在一合适的角度上旋加一扩张性的膨胀力，直至其破裂为止，这个力就是顶破强力。

    耐磨：在已知的压力下，将装在试样夹上的度样与标准磨擦布在一定压力下以一定的轨迹相互磨擦，直至织物出现客户要求的断纱根数或破洞时为止，记录实验终止时的磨擦次数，就是所测的耐磨值。

    抗起毛起球性：将织物在特定的条件下翻滚摩擦一定时间，观看它的表面起毛起球情况，起球是指纤维纠结形成的绒球簇立在织物表面。起毛是指织物表面纤维毛糙不平和(或)纤维起毛，导致织物外观的改变，其起毛起球是通过评级样照或原样对比进行评定的。

    三、色牢度测试

    1）主要项目：

    水洗色牢度，干洗色牢度，摩擦色牢度，日晒色牢度，汗渍色牢度，水渍色牢度，氯漂色牢度，非氯漂色牢度，热压烫色牢度等。

    2）基本内容：

    水洗色牢度：将试样与标准贴衬织物缝合在一起，经洗涤、清洗和干燥，在合适的温度、碱度、漂白和摩擦条件下进行洗涤，使在较短的时间内获得测试结果。其间的摩擦作用是通过小浴比和适当数量的不锈钢珠的翻滚、撞击来完成的，最后对标准帖衬织物和试样用色牢度专用灰卡进行评级，得到测试结果。不同的测试方法有不同的温度、碱度、漂白和磨擦条件及试样尺寸，具体的要根据测试标准和客户要求来选择。一般水洗色牢度较差的颜色有翠兰、艳兰、黑大红、藏青等。

    干洗色牢度：同水洗色牢度一样，只是水洗改成干洗。

    摩擦色牢度：将试样放在摩擦牢度仪上，在一定压力上用标准摩擦白布与之磨擦一定的次数，每组试样均需做干摩擦色牢度与湿摩擦色牢度。对标准摩擦白布上所沾的颜色用灰卡进行评级，所得的级数就是所测的摩擦色牢度。摩擦色牢度需要做干摩和湿摩两种试验，试样上所有的颜色都要摩擦到。

    日晒色牢度：纺织品在使用时通常是暴露在光线下的，光能破坏染料从而导致众所周知的“褪色”，使有色纺织品变色，一般变浅、发暗，有些也会出现色光改变，所以，就需要对色牢度进行测试，日晒色牢度测试，就是将试样与不同牢度级数的蓝色羊毛标准布一起放在规定条件下进行日光曝晒，将试样与蓝色羊毛布进行对比，评定耐光色牢度，蓝色羊毛标准布级数越高越耐光。

    汗渍色牢度：将试样与标准贴衬织物缝合在一起，放在汗渍液中处理后，夹在耐汗渍色牢度仪上，放于烘箱中恒温，然后将试样的贴衬织物分别干燥，最后对标准帖衬织物和试样用色牢度专用灰卡进行评级，得到测试结果。不同的测试方法有不同的汗渍液配比、不同的试样大小、不同的的测试温度和时间。

    水渍色牢度：将试样与标准贴衬织物缝合在一起，放在一定条件的水中充分浸泡后，夹在耐汗渍色牢度仪上，放于烘箱中恒温，然后将试样的贴衬织物分别干燥，最后对标准帖衬织物和试样用色牢度专用灰卡进行评级，得到测试结果。不同的测试方法有不同的试样大小、不同的的测试温度和时间。

    氯漂色牢度：将织物在氯漂液里按一定的条件水洗之后，评定其颜色变化程度，这就是氯漂色牢度。

    非氯漂色牢度：将织物在带有非氯漂的洗涤条件下水洗之后，评定其颜色变化程度，这就是非氯漂色牢度。

    热压烫色牢度：将干试样用棉贴衬织物覆盖后，在规定温度和压力的加热装置中受压一定时间，然后用灰色样卡评定试样的变色和贴衬织物的沾色。热压烫色牢度有干压、潮压、湿压，具体要根据不同的客户要求和测试标准选择测试方法。

    四、化学性能测试

    1）主要测试项目：

    甲醛测试，pH值测试，拒水测试，拒油测试，防污测试，阻燃测试，纤维成份分析，禁用偶氮染料测试等。

    2）基本内容：

    甲醛测试：通过一定的方式对一定份量的织物中的游离甲醛或释放甲醛萃取出来，再通过比色测试，计算出其中的甲醛含量。

    现在的市场上，纺织产品可以通过树脂整理来提高产品的抗皱性，这种树脂整理剂是直接由甲醛来合成的，因此经过这些树脂整理的织物会残留一定量的甲醛。另外，为了提高染色牢度，涂料印花浆中的交联剂以及直接染料和活性染料染色后所用的固色剂等都会使服装材料上残留一定的甲醛。这些甲醛都可以通过一定的测试方法测定出来。

    pH值测试：用pH计对织物溶液的酸碱性进行精确的测量，pH计上读出的数值就是所测的pH值。

    拒水、拒油、防污测试：用一定的方式对织物对水、油、污渍的抵抗能力进行测定，主要针对经过三防整理的布种进行测定。

    阻燃测试：将试样按规定放于阻燃测试仪上进行燃烧，看其火焰蔓延时间。

    纤维成份分析：首先对织物的纤维进行定性分析，定性分析有好多种，有燃烧法，熔点法，手感目测法，显微镜切片分析法等，一般采用显微镜切片分析法，即用切片器将纤维切片后在显微镜下观察，根据其外貌，判断纤维种类，然后根据不同的纤维用不同的溶剂进行定性分析，算出具体的成份含量。

    禁用偶氮染料测试：是国际纺织品服装贸易中最重要的品质监控项目一，也是生态纺织品最基本的质量指标之一，目前主要通过气相色谱仪进行分析测试。偶氮染料测试分三个方法，纺织品（除涤纶和真皮外的纺织品）、聚酯（涤纶）、皮革（真皮），所以做偶氮测试时一定要提供产品的成份。